Monday 20 August 2018

From One Extreme to the Other - 18th -19th August 2018

Saturday 18th August 2018
GOBA Moorings R Wissey to Wiggenhall Mary St Magdalen Relief Channel
10 miles, 1 lock

Well I was wrong about having an interesting walk this morning - it was eventful, but not in a good way.  I decided to walk back towards the River Great Ouse as we had noticed a bridle way that heads off the flood bank which looked interesting.  Down we went to find we were walking along beside a field - not that exciting

then I noticed a track off to the left into the woods which looked much better, so off we went

it was not long before we came across this


It became obvious it was a game bird enclosure.  I was about to turn round and head back when a man in a van arrived and told me politely that I was on private property and should not be there.  I apologised and explained I was a stranger and had no idea I was trespassing.  His next line was 'you are lucky you have the dog on the lead as there are fox snares all over the place and if he got caught in one of those he would be gone'.  I wish I had had the presence of mind to ask why there was no sign at the entrance of the wood saying 'Private'.  Anyway we survived the experience, but if anyone comes this way don't bother walking the bridleway - the flood bank is better and safer.

As we left the Wissey and re-joined the River Great Ouse the calf Sue and I spotted the other day was still hanging around looking sorry for itself.  We know the name of the farm and I have tried googling for contact details to no avail.  Hopefully the farmer will gather it in soon.

This leaning power line looks as though the birds on the right are just too heavy for it to stay upright

When we arrived in Denver Chris and I stopped briefly on the lock landing for Denver Sluice so we could off load some rubbish.  Moored there waiting to go through the lock was nb Lily May,
who we have seen on and off since the Bedford Festival.  The owner is one of the organisers of the IWA Festival in St Neots over the August Bank Holiday.  He was meeting up with a group of boats and they were planning to tackle Welches Dam lock.  We have since heard that he got through the lock, but was the only one to make it.

For us it was round to the lock that leads to the Relief Channel

It is wide enough for two narrowboats
 and very deep

The Environment Agency are in the process of replacing all the floating pontoons on this channel - the work boats did not make the task of collecting the locking crew easy.  The pontoon is hidden behind the work platform and with boats at both ends it was inaccessible.

And so we were on the Relief Channel that goes through Downham Market.  It allows for some control of water at times of flood.  Excess water is pumped uphill and sent to Essex.

It really was from one extreme (the twists and turns of the narrow River Wissey) to the other - a dead straight wide channel

It was not long before we arrived at Downham Market where we found the pontoons chock-a-block.  We managed to breast up with a narrow boat at one end - it was a very full pontoon

A trip to Tesco was on the cards - our last big shop for quite a while, so we were determined to make the most of it.  We got there using all available cover (ie we missed the direct route), but it did allow us to see a bit more of the town, so it was not a totally wasted diversion.

Downham Market is an historic market town which still has a market on Fridays and Saturdays in the Town Hall car park.  It did not look very large and we were on a mission, so no further exploration was made.

It is impossible to miss  Heygates flour mill just the other side of the bridge as you head into town.  From the bit of research I have done I gather that they have 10 mills on 4 sites.


The railway station is on the Fen line from London to King's Lynn.  It opened in 1846.  The signal box is the original (1881) and is one of only five rare examples that has been granted Grade II listed status.  I gather it is to be decommissioned soon as part of a 30 year modernisation plan.

When the railway first opened here The Swan Hotel acted as a ticket office, albeit at some distance from the station.

Passing on from there you pass Dial House - another Grade II listed property.  It was built in the 18th century of carstone.  I had to google the latter - Wikipedia came to my aid - Carstone (or carrstone also known as Silso and gingerbread) is a sedimentary sandstone formed during the Cretaceous period.  It varies in colour from light to dark rusty ginger.  It is used extensively in historic buildings in NW Norfolk.  


Not surprisingly it sports a splendid sundial on the gable end.

As you progress along towards the town centre you pass a place called The Green, Railway Road with this rather splendid building - Barkers Bros Group.  On May 15th, 1949, Ben and John Barker set up business together as jobbing builders, with Tom (who carried on with his own job during the daytime) keeping the records in his spare time. Their equipment consisted of a few small tools and one hand barrow and their first contract was painting a house, for which they were paid £4 and given two second hand ladders. After the first few years Tom came into the business full-time – as the labourer!  Ben left in 1960 to set up his own business.  A lot more information can be found HERE.  They really were a case of 'from little acorns, giant oaks grow'.  
Had Chris and Ken realised it was a hardware shop Sue and I might have found ourselves tackling Tesco on our own!

On the opposite side of  the street is a Wetherspoons called The Whalebone.


This rather unusual route information sign jumped out at me - and yes they are twinned with Civray

Then there is Reeds a very elegant Homestore which has a branch in Ely which we missed!

From a distance I spotted a rather elegant clock, but the photo did not do it justice, so

I called on the help of Google again and came up with this.  It is yet another Grade II listed feature in this town.  The iconic town clock was built in 1878 by William Cunliffe and presented to the town by local businessman, draper, grocer and clothier James Scott at the cost of £450.  It has only ever had one refurbishment and that was in 2004 when the clock's mechanism was refurbished and the chimes were re-activated.  If you want to know more about this beautiful clock look HERE

It was certainly a flying visit to the town and I got the feeling there was more to offer, so maybe we will have to come back one day.  Flowers are important to this town with many wonderful displays.  I believe Sue found a plaque to say they have won awards in the past


And so our whistle stop tour of this small town (population in 2011 was just under 10,000) came to an end when we entered and then got swallowed up in the bowels of Tesco.  We emerged some time later fully laden. Going by the direct route was about three quarters of a mile, but that is a long way with heavy shopping.  I called Bishops taxis and requested a cab for four adults and a lot of shopping - they sent a 7 seater

The cost was just £4 and even with a pound as a tip it was cheap at the price.  The driver was so helpful despite needing a stick to walk he helped unload and made everything as easy as possible for us.

Once we had unloaded and had lunch we went on our way along the relief channel which was still straight

and wide enough to travel two abreast and still leaving room for a tanker or two to pass us!

The next moorings are at Stow Bridge, but no chance there - two cruisers were taking up a lot of space

So on we went to the last chance to find a mooring for the night

Where joy of joys it was empty, so plenty of room for us both

Four of the cruisers moored at Downham Market came past going to the head of the navigation.  If they were hoping to moor, they were out of luck and they headed back to where they had come from.  They were very respectful as they past our boats, but once under the bridge they let rip!


Jealous - me, well maybe just a bit - to get to the limit of the navigation and back took them just 17 minutes.  The next day it took us 38 minutes!!

It was a fabulous mooring and we had a very peaceful night.

Sunday 19th August
Wiggenhall Mary St Magdalen to Denver via the head of the navigation
11 miles, 1 lock

Well having come this far we had to go to the end and back, but first thing Monty and I went off for a walk which also took us to the village.  The pub there - The Cock Inn looks worth visiting.

They have a big charity event on over the August Bank Holiday which looks like great fun


I was too early on Sunday morning to gain access to the church, but Sue had fared better on Saturday afternoon

Off we went to the limit of the navigation - I doubt if anyone could call it exciting, but it had to be done.

Round we went to head back to Denver

Just past that bridge water skiing takes place, but not today.  I suspect it was just too windy.  We are assuming the structure in the water is a jump for the skiers.

So back we went to Downham Market where we actually managed to moor this time.  Ken and I did a dirty dart to Tesco and back for papers and a few forgotten items on Saturday before we set sail again to head back to Denver.

Just after Downham Market we came upon a sight that I doubt we will ever pass again whilst on a narrowboat - a jet skier having a wonderful time.

We had a plan for the big relief lock at Denver.  Ken would drop Sue off below the lock.  She prepared the lock, we went in first, then we tied Cleddau to Tentatrice and we used the risers to control both boats stern and rear.  It took forever, but worked a treat.

Once out we had to find a mooring and we ended up boating together apart with us on one side and Cleddau across the other side.

So was the Relief Channel worth doing?  We thought it was.  More time in Downham Market would have been appreciated, but there just weren't the moorings on Saturday to make that viable.

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